Fragrance Review for Styled Magazine Oct.
SCENTSORY NOTES
Every day, a maelstrom of scents passes us by. Some go by unnoticed, some we take note of, and others invoke a memory. Like an old familiar feeling taking over you when someone passes you by, you suddenly find yourself brought back to a time or place that may have been hours or even years ago. As if an old friend stopped you on the street to say, “hello” … when you’re there, even if it’s for a brief moment, it’s a beautiful thing.
It has been proven that our olfactory sense works on the same level as our other senses, the only difference being odors evoke emotion. Recall a time when a stranger smelled of someone you love, or even loathe? We are constantly conditioning ourselves to associate smell with feeling. It’s this correlation that intrigues and continually draws me to studying fragrance.
I used to have a completely delusional ideal that it was actually the designer that came up with a brilliant scheme of fragrance. I would imagine them traveling around the world to mystical destinations where they would extract and harvest only the finest raw materials to use for their ‘juice’. True, it may have been as such in the late 1800s, but today, most, if not all scents are produced in chemistry labs across the world. Clearly a more realistic process, not to mention, a multi-billion dollar industry. Scent has become an industry where the bottom line is as much a part of the creation as the vision.
There are five Big Boys in the fragrance industry: Givaudan, Firmenich, International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), Symrise, and Takasago. They are the key players behind the houses that you are most familiar with: Versace, Ralph Lauren, Dior, and so on.
The chemists that work for these flavor and fragrance companies are piecing together thousands of chemicals and formulations to create a fragrance that will be the next Chanel No. 5, a true classic. Gone are the days when scents were made as an art using raw material. It would seem as if exclusivity is blasé and a lost virtue from past generations, although, there are a few companies that remain dedicated to intertwining the parallel worlds of art and science. Check out The Different Company created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena & Thierry de Baschmakov.
Take a non-conventional approach to fragrance. Enter a world that is uncompromised – where you’re seeing, smelling, and feeling. Choose a scent that is compelling, and speaks to your individuality. Let’s shift the focus and say goodbye to Britney, Paris, and Mariah to place our attention on products that are quality, complex, and deserve acknowledgement. Like fashion, fragrance is one of the best ways to present a piece of yourself without saying a word.
I have compiled a list of ‘juice’ that may appeal to both genders. New classics for the sophisticates of our generation:
Tom Ford – Black Orchid (2006)
Clearly anything that Tom Ford creates is geared to be high quality and sleek. Black Orchid is a statement. There are heavy floral notes at first, but as it wears these florals are subdued by the warm woody base of sandalwood and vanilla. Black Orchid is complex and puts glamour back into the bottle. The black flask is wrapped in gold twine with a simple yet elegant gold plate baring Ford’s name. It is smooth like velvet and has class like Grace Kelly. This scent is ultimately Retro-Glam. The minute it hits my skin, I want to apply a coat of red Chanel lipstick, throw on a vintage dress, and catch the next flight to Paris.
Top Notes: Black Truffle, Ylang Ylang, Bergamot, effervescent citrus, black currant, and jasmine
Base Notes: Lotus Wood, Patchouli, Incense, Vetiver, Vanilla, Balsam, and Sandalwood
Christian Dior – Dolce Vita (1995)
Dolce Vita was created by Perfumer Pierre Bourdon, who is the ‘nose’ behind Davidoff’s Cool Water, Escada, and multiple fragrances for Frederic Malle.
First off, the bottle is exquisite. Like Poison and J’adore, Dolce Vita is a beautifully crafted bubble bottle with gold accents. I associate the scent with cold winter days spent in the mountains of British Columbia. I used a 100 ml bottle in under 4 months, which may give you an indication of how much I love this fragrance. It wraps around you like a blanket and comforts you all day. The spicy oriental, heavy woodsy base and vanilla create a beautiful balance that accents the cinnamon and fruit. Wear this scent and you will be noticed.
Top Notes: Rose, Magnolia, Muguet
Middle Notes: Apricot, Peach, Cinnamon
Base Notes: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Heliotropin (a chemical formula which mimics the odor of a heliotrope flower and enhances the sandalwood smell)
Fresh – Cannabis Santal (2006)
Yes, Cannabis. No, after one sniff you will not be as high as a kite, jamming to Grateful Dead, or craving late night Shawarma and chocolate covered jujubes. A stunning piece of work, I absolutely adore the Fresh line. Cannabis Santal was on me for 365 days with no exceptions for the year of 2006. There is nothing that smells quite like it. It truly embodies the term ‘hippie chic’ with Patchouli, Cannabis, and Rose. For me, this fragrance unfolds a dark beauty and plays out like the song Don’t kiss me goodbye by Ultra Orange Emmanuel.
When you seek this out, buy it, and love it, make sure to thank me… this is a secret love of mine.
Top Notes: Bergamot, Brazilian Orange, Black Plum
Middle Notes: Patchouli, Cannabis Accord, Rose
Base Notes: Chocolate, Vetiver, Vanilla Musks
Guerlain – L’instant (2003)
The common accord in virtually all Guerlain fragrances is amber and vanilla. Created by Perfumer Maurice Roucel (Symrise), L’instant is complex. It is luxury and it is sweet. Typically, I abhor florals… but for some reason, this scent is so impeccable, it never even struck my mind to dislike it. It has a sensuous modernism that is completely breathtaking. I compare it to a new friend: at first it may present a challenge, it may spite you, but eventually you won’t leave home without it. I am quite fond of this particular scent because it transforms throughout the day. It plays with my own skin chemistry and makes me feel honey kissed and invincible.
Notes: Citrus Honey, Magnolia, Amber
On a budget? Check these out.
Vanilla Fields – It may be found covered in dust on the bottom shelf at the drugstore, but so what?. Spray it on, you might be hooked.
Betsey Johnson- Fruity floriental. A percentage of sales from every bottle are donated to Breast Cancer Research.
Patchouli Oil – An aphrodisiac. You will either love it or hate it. Also, it can be used as dread lock conditioner and as an antidote for venomous snakebites.
My challenge to you is to take note of scents that pass you by. Whether it’s fresh cut grass or the wind on a warm night at dusk. Pay attention to small details and take just a moment to evaluate what they are, where they come from, and how they affect you. Not everyone is born with a ‘nose’, but you will soon notice that with a bit of recognition, precision, and imagination – your entire life could change!
